Ultrasound face cleansing and external preparations as acne correction tools
Acne has long been perceived as an infectious disease, but data from Das, Reynolds 2014 and other researchers have revealed that it is an inflammatory process in which the bacteria Propionibacterium acnes and innate immunity play a crucial role in the spread of pathological hyperkeratinization and inflammation. Changes in the composition of sebum and increased sensitivity to androgens also play a role in the inflammatory process.
The level of sebum excretion is often used as an indicative marker in studies.
Fat excretion is controlled by hormones. In 2015, Bissonnette and colleagues conducted a study of free testosterone for the production of sebum and found that in women, changes in sebum secretion depend on the level of serum testosterone, 5-alpha reductase activity and sleep parameters.
Choi and colleagues (2017) found that unsaturated fatty acids are the main component of sebum, and it is likely that a change in their level affects both the synthesis of sebum and the inflammatory reaction in the sebaceous glands.
Hyperkeratosis Increased formation of horny scales due to impaired sebum production. The mouth of the hair follicle begins to “clog”, it becomes clogged. Comedones appear. In patients with acne, keratinization is impaired by transglutaminase and sebum viscosity.
Comedones are an excellent food source for bacteria. The immune system recognizes bacteria and initiates an immune response that is accompanied by inflammation.
Propagation of bacteria Propionibacterium acnes. This anaerobic living in anoxic conditions, in clogged hair follicles, feels great and multiplies, attaching a secondary infection. Pustules appear.
Genetic predisposition, hormonal, exogenous factors (diet, PMS).
Memo to Beautician-2: Acne Stage
It is important to remember that cosmetologists (not dermatologists!) Have the right to work only with mild acne
It is diagnosed if there are closed and open comedones, and the number of papulopustular elements does not exceed ten pieces.
Such a classification is conditional, but it helps the cosmetologist determine what kind of cleaning the patient can carry out, and when it is better not to start, but immediately send the patient to a dermatologist.
I cleanse the skin with two types of jelly. I mix 5 ml of cleansing jelly and 1 ml of hydrophilic jelly. Using the resulting combination, I make up the skin around the eyes and cleanse my face, neck and décolleté. Wash off with water. This method allows you to remove even persistent makeup and at the same time soothes the skin.
I prepare the skin for the procedure for loosening the upper stratum corneum. To do this, I like to use Magiray Refreshing Cleansing Foam with ANA acids and plant extracts. The foam contains 10% acids at pH 3.5–3.7 and perfectly prepares the skin for cosmetic procedures. I apply the drug for 2-3 minutes, give a light massage and then rinse off.
The next step I apply tonic Mineral dry tonic. This is a professional product that, when dissolved in various proportions in water, forms a tonic. Granules are used locally to dry inflammatory elements.
In this case, the drug solution is an electrolyte, which allows it to be used for galvanic procedures (pH of the solution is 6.4–6.6).
I especially like to use the product on oily and problem skin, since it is an antiseptic and can be used as an anti-inflammatory, wound healing agent.
I start with exfoliation. To do this, the Magiray line of products has various peeling complexes. For oily skin, I use the Micropyl system, which includes Micropropil cream scrub and powder. By these means it is possible to carry out enzymatic and mechanical peeling.
I divide the stage into several steps.
First I apply a cream scrub. It softens the skin and removes dead cells. Peeling activity can be controlled by the amount of powder.
The powder contains a complex of enzymes and herbal extracts that gently loosen the skin. The composition is activated directly on the skin after mixing with a cream-scrub.
I use the following proportion: 3-5 ml of cream with 1 g of powder. I give a light massage for 3-5 minutes, then rinse off.
Next I spend cold hydrogenation. To do this, I use a gentle gel mask with a dense layer under the film, the exposure time is 15 minutes.
I call this mask a lifesaver. Plant extracts loosen the stratum corneum before cleaning to make it easier to extract comedones.
I clean my face, combine both atraumatic ultrasound with mechanical, and I perform it separately. If ultrasonic cleaning is carried out, then I use Active Alpha Serum to facilitate gliding.
This is a transparent gel with a pH of 3.5, containing 16% ANA, 3% azelaic acid and 2% polyhydroxy acids. It intensely moisturizes the skin, reduces inflammation and the number of comedones, gently brightens age spots.