Benefits of Fair Biochemical Production
The simplicity of the formula is the basis of a cosmetic product, and the shorter the list of ingredients, the better. Good developers work on eliminating ballast components and integrate components whenever possible.
The correct formula ensures that the active substance is delivered to the desired area of the skin, but the dosage, stability of the components and the duration of the effect are maintained.
Moreover, even a small change in the composition can significantly affect the effectiveness of professional procedures.
We are used to thinking that working cosmeceuticals are produced exclusively at factories in Europe, the USA or Asia.
But is it possible to repeat the success of local production in Russia?
Skin aging is a physiological process associated with functional and structural changes in the skin. The main task of the doctor, especially in young patients, is to slow premature skin aging and restore its natural environment.
It is difficult to argue with evidence-based medicine, much less reinvent the wheel. A search for “efficacy”, “topicals” in foreign medical databases yields over 5 thousand results showing that various active ingredients both in vitro and in vivo can visibly reduce signs of skin aging. At the same time, not only the components separately can be effective, but also their combinations.
The main thing is to determine which formulas are truly working. Here, the knowledge and experience of practicing doctors and biochemists is required.
A good formulation design depends on several factors:
preliminary research and data collection
careful selection of components, stability studies
cell line / tissue toxicology studies
composition development and optimization
It is precisely on this that the attention of the specialists of VMA them. Kirov when creating therapeutic cosmetic concentrates (Beauty Concentrate, Rejuvital, St. Petersburg) with a high content of active ingredients.
The biological activity of the concentrate is due to the synergistic action of its components: peptide complex, DMAE, lipoic and three forms of hyaluronic acid, vitamin complex and extracts of valuable medicinal raw materials. There is evidence of their effectiveness both on existing markers of skin aging and the ability to prevent their appearance.
Skin Aging Markers
Deterioration of tone, increase in the number of wrinkles;
The appearance of age folds, sagging and dullness;
The appearance of age spots, a change in relief and a worsening of the contour of the face;
Deterioration of antioxidant and protective properties of the skin;
Slowing microcirculation and drainage properties of soft tissues;
Impaired lipid and water balance.
The mechanism of action of active ingredients
When developing the Beauty Concentrate formula, doctors selected those peptides that stimulate both collagen synthesis and protect its fibers from destructive enzymes, and can also be combined with each other, working in synergy.
Various anti-aging approaches, including the use of peptide cosmetics, can influence the molecular features of skin aging with clinical efficacy (see, for example, Shin et al. 2019).
An important structural component of the skin is the extracellular matrix (ECM), which consists of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), proteoglycans, collagen fibers and other large molecules. Together they form a structure that provides the biochemical function of the skin as an organ.
The destruction of VKM is due to both chronological and photoaging.
Collagen fibrillar protein is the main component of VKM, with age it becomes fragmented and roughly distributed, and its total amount decreases. This is mainly due to the increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases and impaired signaling of the transforming growth factor TGF-β, caused by the active forms of oxygen formed during aging.
It was found that the content of TGF-β in the blood vessels of the microvasculature of the human dermis decreases from the 41st year of life and is accompanied by an age-related decrease in the number of vessels in the dermis, which affects the nutrition of the skin. The age-related increase in the content of TGF-β in fibroblasts is associated with an age-related decrease in their number and proliferative activity in the dermis (Gunin, Golubtsova 2019).
The SYN®-COLL peptide in Beauty Concentrate mimics the mechanism of collagen synthesis in the skin via TGF-ß. The action of SYN®-COLL is similar to that of the thrombospondin-I protein, which activates TGF-ß. Collagen protection is achieved by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMP 1 and 3) and pro-inflammatory cytokines, as MMP 1 is one of the key enzymes in collagen degradation.
In order for collagen synthesis to proceed without errors, special proteins, decorins, must be present in the skin. They are horseshoe-shaped and can attach to collagenic protofibrils, directing their assembly in the right direction.